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 ast month’s article was about my visit to Lake Seneca in the finger Lakes American
Viticultural Area in upstate New York. This month
’s focus will be on the wines of Lake Keuka.
Let’s review for a moment. Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Ph.D. and professor of plant
sciences in Russia, emigrated to the United States in 1951 with $40. He spoke
six languages, English not being one of them.
After washing dishes for several years in New York City, he landed a job as a
janitor at Cornell University
’s Geneva Experimental Station in the Finger Lakes area. While there, he tried in
vain to persuade anyone who could understand his broken English that the great
vinifera grapes such as Riesling and Pinot Noir could be planted in that area.
The only vines that existed then were native vines such as Catawba and Concord,
and hybrids such as Seyval Blanc and Baco Noir.
He chanced to meet Charles Fornier, who was president of Gold Seal Winery. They
spoke in French and Dr. Frank impressed him to such an extent, Fornier hired
him on the spot as director of research at Gold Seal.
Frank knew he could grow vinifera grapes in New York, and Fornier encouraged him
to start. After working for Gold Seal, Frank started his own Vinifera Cellars
on Lake
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Keuka in 1962. Without him, the New York wine industry might be 20 or 30 years
behind where it is today. Frank died in 1985, and
The Wine Spectator named him one of the 54 most influential people in the wine industry, including
him in its Hall of Fame.
Although unable to cover the entire area, I spent considerable time at three of
the most famous and important wineries: Bully Hill, Heron Hill and Dr. Frank
’s Vinifera Wine Cellars. There are about 10 wineries on the “Keuka Lake Wine Trail,” Bully Hill not being a member.
Bully Hill’s story, although not of the same historical importance, is as interesting, and
even more entertaining than Dr. Frank
’s.
Walter S. Taylor, a natural prankster and promoter—and direct descendant of P.T. Barnum—was fired from the Leviathan family business, Taylor Wine Company, for saying
some unflattering things about the company to reporters in San Francisco.
This all led Taylor to starting his own winery, Bully Hill on Lake Keuka. Taylor
Wine Company subsequently was sold to Coca-Cola, which promptly won a court
order enjoining him from using the name Taylor on his labels. It was the best
thing they could have done for him.
Taylor’s promotional genius sprang to life. His labels read Walter S._____. On one,
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Bully Hill Love My Goat Red, a quote above the hilarious-looking Billy goat,
reads,
“They have my name and heritage, but they didn’t get my goat.” His supporters loved it. Taylor, a fan of French-American hybrids, died in
2001.
Some of Dr. Frank’s and Bully Hill wines are available in Houston. If ordered from the winery, I
recommend waiting until mid-October for shipment.
A perfect day of wine tasting would be to start at Heron Hill, then venture on
to Dr. Frank
’s, then finish up at Bully Hill and stay for dinner at their wonderful
restaurant.
My favorite wines at each are:
Heron Hill – Dry Riesling, Semi-Dry Riesling, Eclipse White, Eclipse Red and Riesling Ice
Wine.
Dr. Frank’s – Dry Riesling, Semi-Dry Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and
Rkatsileli (r katz I tell i), possibly the oldest grape varietal in the world,
found planted on Mount Ararat!
Bully Hill – Seyval Blanc, Baco Noir, Pinot Noir and Love My Goat Red (available in
semi-sweet and sweet).
All of these wineries are very near Hammondsport at the south end of Lake Keuka.
To receive a copy of the Lake Seneca article, e-mail your fax number to Denman
at
dmoodywine@comcast.net.
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